Asymmetrical power relations and upgrading among suppliers of global clothing brands: Hugo Boss in Turkey
通过土耳其服装企业Sarar与德国品牌Hugo Boss长达13年的合作与决裂案例，分析供应商如何从弱势代工厂成长为自有品牌竞争者，并探讨德国主导企业与1980年后土耳其制度市场环境的影响。
When a relatively powerless clothing supplier encroaches on the core competence of its dominant network partner and emerges as a competitor in its own right, this calls for detailed documentation and explanation. In this paper, we provide such an explanation through inquiry into the Turkish firm Sarar. A 13-year manufacturing contractor of Hugo Boss, it withdrew from its partnership with the German lead firm in 1998 and has since created its own brands of men's suits that are now sold at home and abroad. After the withdrawal, Hugo Boss established its own manufacturing facilities in Turkey. Here we investigate the relevancy of the national origin of the lead firm Hugo Boss and of the broader institutional and market setting of the post-1980 Turkey in which the relationship between the two firms was embedded. The findings are in some tension with the organizational frameworks that are frequently used to describe the clothing industry. Copyright 2007, Oxford University Press.