从边缘到高级定制核心:可可·香奈儿的创业历程

From the Margins to the Core of Haute Couture: The Entrepreneurial Journey of Coco Chanel

Enterprise and Society · 2022
被引 14 · 同刊同年前 4%
ABS 3

中文导读

追踪可可·香奈儿从1900年代初的局外人到1930年代初成为法国高级定制领域标志性人物的创业历程,揭示外来者如何积累和转化各类资本以推动自身理念,适合研究创业、商业史和社会学的学者阅读。

Abstract

We trace the history of Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel’s entrepreneurial journey as a fashion designer from her early years as an outsider (early 1900s) to her rise to success and consecration as an icon within the French haute couture field (early 1930s)—a field controlled by powerful insiders. Our study sheds light on the social forces and historical circumstances underlying an outsider’s journey from the margins of an established field to its core. Drawing on unique historical material, we develop a novel process view that highlights the shifting influence of forces operating at different levels in the accumulation, deployment, and conversion of various forms of capital (i.e., human, social, economic, and symbolic) that outsiders need to promote their ideas. In particular, our multilevel perspective accounts simultaneously for the individual’s efforts to push forward these ideas (micro-level), as well as the audience dynamics (meso-level) and exogenous forces (macro-level) that shape their recognition. Chanel’s historical case analysis also affords a window into one of the first female entrepreneurs with global impact in business history, with the added challenge of establishing herself in what at the time was a male-dominated and mature field.

创业研究商业史社会学时尚产业